Journal of photographer Flemming Bo Jensen

Photographer, Time Traveler, Writer and Nomad

Aventuras de América Del Sur

Posted on February 1st, 2012

An adventure it was, an adventure featuring classical elements. Lows, highs, challenges, disappointments, adversity, darkness, light, sadness, solitude, tears and smiles. Got a bit bumpy in the middle there, but it all sort of worked out in the end. The story of my life. But let me backtrack some.

July 2011, Copenhagen. I talk to Daniel Milnor and Adam Weintraub and soon after excitedly sign up for the PhotoExperience.Net workshop in Peru in December. The thought then becomes, with no other plans and since I am going to Peru, might as well inflate the trip into a couple of months of exploration of this, for me unknown continent. In my mind are day dreams of a South American adventure, jumping around the continent in my ‘time machine’ from country to country, capturing the lives of the people of América Del Sur. Dreams that have nothing to do with real life as we know it. Story of my life. Tend to day dream out loud and then get bruised as dreams meet reality head on.

1st of November 2011. The day has come, it is time for take-off. Time in Copenhagen stretched and warped, simultaneously feeling slow and fast. Now, sitting in the airport, time ran out, ran much too quickly. Not ready to go, not ready to stay, not prepared.

Argentina. So begins the Adventure of South America. Splashed down in Buenos Aires in my time machine. Big city, not at all my thing and not expecting to like it, but liked it even less than I expected. Saving grace was the fantastic Valentin and Ava, their brilliant B&B and the wonderful fellow guests. Finally meeting longtime acquaintance, adventurer and photographer extraordinaire and member of The Explorers ClubDaniel Fox – was also a true pleasure.

My mind balked at traveling again. Had been stalling for months meaning I had prepared nothing for this trip, apart from learning Spanish. Any attempt at preparation depressed me. What I do is not even really traveling, having no home means I am always, and I am never traveling. Just living in different places in the world. A lifestyle I no longer wanted, could no longer justify to myself. No purpose, no direction, drifting and feeling I was not much to anyone. Or not enough, anyway. Not really ready to leave Copenhagen, yet not really ready to stay. Living out of a bag, the constant transport and instability was not something my mind wanted any part of again. Buenos Aires served a purpose, it made it crystal clear what I did not want. To live as a nomad anymore. And made it crystal clear what I wanted. A home and everyday life again in Copenhagen near old friends and family. This decision gave me some much needed inner peace and strength. Somewhere in my mind a few gears clicked and started working. I finally knew I was going to be ok. In that respect I thank Buenos Aires. So I came close to giving up right away, as I saw no purpose anymore, but escaped to Salta in the Andes Mountains, hoping I would make it to the workshop in Peru.

Landing in Salta, this warm, dry and dusty desert town instantly appealed to me. Decided to find a place to hole up for a spell. Or I would go crazy, or go home – or both. Fortunately I found a nice house to rent. A house in an interesting poorer and very non-touristy part of Salta, me being the only gringo on the streets. Dusty dry streets and run down houses, cobwebs could blow across the street while gauchos slowly ride by and it would fit right in.

It was an interesting experience living in Salta for 5 weeks. Having the house and the very warm dry Summer of Salta calmed my mind. The surrounding areas and landscapes are very special and beautiful, the villages and people very interesting. Ultimately though, also a very frustrating and very lonely experience. Did not want to move, did not want to stay. Tired, the kind of tired sleep does not cure. Been on the road for too long. Really, just wanted out of my nomad lifestyle, but now that I was here in South America, must make it to the Peru workshop. Photography in Salta proved very hard. Explained in Spanish who I was and what I was doing and got to know some of the neighbors – but most people did not at all like the fact I was on the streets making pictures, and refused portraits. Sometimes drawing accusing and suspicious looks and not many smiles. Being much too sensitive to ignore this tension I grew disillusioned with my work and the nomad life I no longer wanted. Told myself that sometimes it takes a while to ‘get going’ but nothing really ever got going, running the time machine on an empty tank.

When time came to move, my mind broke down at the looming prospect of new instability. The very same day of packing my things, the last day in Salta, an acquaintance of mine in Copenhagen committed suicide. Not a close friend, but an amazing person and it affected me very deeply, sending me to a dark and lonely place. Came within a mouse click of going home to Copenhagen.

Instead, arrived in tropical Santa Cruz of Bolivia. Spent a few days and ultimately decided to weather the storm in my mind. I desperately wanted to make it to Peru and the workshop, the purpose for going to América Del Sur. My otherwise quite awful hostal had a nice swimming pool and tropical weather agrees with me. The food was much better than Argentina and cheaper, so I tried to be good to myself.

Next stop was La Paz. The first time that I actually let out a ‘wow’ in América Del Sur. The airport is located at 4km altitude in the Andes mountains. After landing, a drive down the mountainside suddenly and dramatically reveals La Paz. Mad, impossible La Paz, desperately clinging to the sides of a steep valley. Only the discovery of gold could produce a city in such a surreal location. La Paz takes your breath away. Literally. The 3.7km altitude, thin air and very steep streets are a trying combination. The ‘wow’ was short-lived. It rained an awful lot and was extremely cold, my mood was dark. Working was even harder than in Argentina. What little inspiration and energy I had left for photography, and travel, I lost.

Arriving in Cusco, Peru, and meeting me amigo, the awesome Adam Weintraub was a great relief. The workshop with Dan Milnor and Adam was now only a week away, the reason for going, the reason for not giving up. Stayed at Adam’s B&B enjoying the great hospitality of Adam and his family, and recharging internal batteries. Cusco is a fascinating and cool city full of great people. First time I got a ‘si si!’ to making a portrait of a person I was so surprised I screwed up the image. The cold weather took it’s heavy toll but the workshop was now very close.

The PhotoExperience.net workshop I have already spoken highly of in previous stories from Peru. It was a phenomenal experience and also a million laughs, very sorely needed. The workshop was worth the wait and even surpassing expectations. The fact I ended the workshop quite ill does not diminish of a fantastic time with fantastic people in wonderful Peru. The workshop challenged and rekindled my drive for photography, and especially documentary photography. My thanks to the whole workshop gang, the ‘giggle crew’, have not laughed that much that hard for that long. Peru and the workshop was a great high, a great end.

My Aventuras de América Del Sur ended in Santiago, Chile. Really just a few days of pit-stop waiting for my flight to Australia. Disliking big cities even when I am not sick, time was spent in the garden of my nice B&B recharging and recovering in the lovely warm Chilean Summer. Feeling slightly better, I boarded the plane for 24 hours of time travel to Perth, Western Australia.

So it ended, the América Del Sur adventure.
Got a bit bumpy there in the middle but it worked out in the end. The story of my life.


Postface

Not quite sure why I am even writing this post, except I feel I need to. My time machine has now brought me from the Amazon jungle in Peru to the other side of the world in a matter of days, to the sunny and warm Western Australian summer, visiting wonderful friends. Healthy again and re-charged, I look back with a different perspective. I realise that despite of, perhaps because of the hardship, América Del Sur very much crawled under my skin. Especially Peru affected my soul. The anarchy, chaos, energy, life, landscapes, villages and most of all wonderful people of Peru with their smiles and incredible hospitality left a deep impression. I feel drawn back to Peru.

Waves of homesickness hits me presently, and I seriously look forward to being home and creating the next phase in Copenhagen. Awfully exciting actually. I have traveled enough, for now. Seen enough, for now. Though, as much as it can hurt, I am not sure I ever want to stop daydreaming out loud. Only moderate it some. Questions enter my mind, with all I have seen, all I have done, can I just go back? Will it drive me crazy? Perhaps, but a life in Copenhagen is now what I want.

Whatever happens, it will be exciting. Whatever happens, I will be ok. Whatever happens, it will be another adventure, probably featuring all the classical elements.

Coliseo de Gallos

Posted on February 15th, 2012

One of the ever present tiny taxis of Cusco, Peru, takes me to the Coliseo de Gallos. The driver is chatty and although I miss half the words due to my basic Spanish and the noise from the engine threatening to blow up, we have a fine conversation. He is excited to be bringing a gringo to the event. Wants to know if I enjoy them, the fights, the betting, the action. “No se amigo” — I would not know, this is my first!

Six soles and a hasta lluego later, I have arrived. I look for el boletero, where do I buy my ticket? Confounded, I look at others and reverse engineer. A tiny hole in the wall, not much bigger than my hand, holds the secret to getting in. 30 soles and a ticket are exchanged. All I see is a hand, I wonder what is at the other end. I forget about my stomach ache and my cold and excitedly enter the Coliseo. The coliseum houses a famous and infamous Peruvian tradition – cockfights.

Hover over the image for navigation and full screen controls

It appears to be a quiet day, the coliseum is barely half full. It is an overcast cold Summer day. Still, the air is filled with anticipation, laughter and a thirst for action (and Cusqueña cervesas). I am the only gringo, I circle and become familiar with the place, the people, the action. I capture a few images on the edge, easing my way in. A fight is about to start. The roosters are fitted with the long sharp silvery spurs. “Izquierda”, “derecho”. Bets are made on the left or right side rooster. The tension builds. I ask for permission to enter the arena and shoot the preparations, am granted a “si si amigo” with a friendly smile and waved into the arena. Everyone reminds me “sin flash sin flash amigo!”. Claro, no problemo. No flash shooting for me, I do not wish to see a rooster in a blinded-by-the-flash freaked out rage chase me around the arena with a silver knife strapped to it’s leg (others might find that idea quite amusing though).

We leave the arena, the fight begins, the roosters circle each other. First fight is non dramatic, the roosters do not want to engage despite much egging on by the crowd and managers. “This was not so bad” I think, not really liking the whole concept of humans making animals fight. Next fight, different story. Rooster Derecho is violently slain dead in 30 seconds by a vicious rooster Izquierda. Crowd is excited. Stunned, I stop shooting. Loco. That was insane, dramatic, violent and bloody. The whole place is insane. And very interesting. Steeped in tradition, culture, violence, betting, life death and anarchy. Loud music is pumped out between the fights. Beer, lots of beer is inhaled. I must keep shooting and pick up the camera again.

The music is muted. Anticipation is high, tension can be tasted in the air. Final bets are made. New fights begin. Working the scene is a joy as it usually is in Peru, everyone allows me to go where I like. And get in close. This is intense, this odd micro cosmos contained within the Coliseo.

Two hours pass quickly, I walk out the gates and re-enter Cusco, insert myself into another tiny taxi, taking me to an Indian restaurant to meet Adam Weintraub and family. Loco. This whole day has been insane. And rather awesome. Started off the day in the Amazon jungle, returned to Cusco, experienced a very Peruvian event, the cockfights, and am now at an Indian restaurant with my Cusco friends. Only in Peru.

Thanks to Adam, Carlos and Maria for the Coliseo de Gallos experience.


This post features a SlideshowPro flash gallery. Hover over the image for navigation and full screen controls. Do try the full screen mode (icon in bottom right corner of slideshow) – looks rather nice!

Glenn Baker

Posted on February 7th, 2012

 

Meet Glenn Baker. Glenn arrived from the 50s in his time machine wearing white sneakers, blue jeans and a black T-shirt. Glenn has seen a bit of mileage, so has the old cars and trucks that Glenn restores. Glenn breathes new life into them, takes them to a level of artwork. Glenn has looks and character to even outshine the cars.

America Del Sur in Print

Posted on January 29th, 2012

Two and a half month I traveled and worked in América Del Sur. Having the opportunity to shoot almost every day I made a fair amount of images, street and documentary photography and some portraits. Images that I am now just starting to look at. And there’s nothing like prints to edit, sequence, select and judge images. So I very loosely selected a handful of images that looked interesting, turned out to be 185 images, about 3-4% of what I had captured. I made small prints of all of these and now I can play with them. Spread them all over the floor of the boat, touch them, shuffle them around, sequence, select them. Prints just speak to me in a way pixels on a screen do not. I can sequence and edit them over and over, creating a new creative result every time.  I am wanting to bring the physical process back into my photography and am looking forward to hopefully soon be shooting and processing black-white film myself with a Leica M6.

Looking at these images, do I have a body of work? I do not really know. There are some good images. A few greats. Lots of mediocre ones, good intentions, poor results. Forcing something out of nothing. Do I want to do something with these images? A new book? Books? A much smaller book, say concentrating on stories of Peru? Question everything? Yes. I do not know, that is part of what the prints are for, I can get to know what I have captured and see what (if anything) I want to do with these images. What do they tell me, what do I feel looking at them? Prints, even tiny ones like these, are a very important part of the process.

Peru Photo Story: Solitude

Posted on January 23rd, 2012

Peru-Solitude1 Peru-Solitude2 Peru-Solitude3 Peru-Solitude4 Peru-Solitude5 Peru-Solitude6 Peru-Solitude7

The Andes. Ancient and majestic mountains, windy, cold and unforgiving. The road snakes through the desolate and uninviting landscape. The sky is white, the wind fierce and colours are muted to a stark monochrome mood. Yet, here in this extreme environment people live and make their lives.

More a mood than a story, these pictures were made in the Andes mountains of Peru driving from Arequipa to Chivay. This was the third story I submitted for the group reviews in the brilliant Adam Weintraub PhotoExperience.net workshop with Daniel Milnor.

The solitude spoke to me instantly. I know it well having mapped out that feeling intensely. I chose black and white as I wished to do a different story at this time in the workshop, and it enhances the mood of the harsh environment. The 2nd to last image is easily omitted but I wanted to bring the traveler into this environment, 4 kilometers altitude, unforgiving, uninviting, fascinating.

Peru Photo Essay: Christmas in the barrios

Posted on January 17th, 2012

Peru-essay-2-Christmas - 1 Peru-essay-2-Christmas - 2 Peru-essay-2-Christmas - 3 Peru-essay-2-Christmas - 4 Peru-essay-2-Christmas - 5 Peru-essay-2-Christmas - 6

“Stop!!!!” – I am quite sure it was Amy who first screamed what we all wanted, to stop the car. We had just spotted these wonderful people dressing up in the ‘barrios’ neighborhood of the town of Arequipa. Out jumps 9 photographers, like a task force, causing quite a stir. Fortunately the incredibly cool and nice people loved having 9 photographers documenting their small intimate Christmas festival, one of my favourite events in the entire workshop and unscripted, entirely by chance that we happened to be passing by. They invited us to stay and partake in the festivities, wanting to share their food and beer. What incredible hospitality, 9 photographers show up and they instantly invites us in to dinner. Peruvians are cool.

This is the photo essay I submitted for our second review, day 3 of the Photoexperience.net Peru workshop with Daniel Milnor.  Slightly modified version, featuring Dan’s suggestions for sequencing. Quite happy with this essay, the first two images are two of my favourites from Peru and good images do not happen often and require a lot of work. I am very excited about working this way, always thinking of an image series and a story. Documentary photography, storytelling and bookmaking was the reason for doing the workshop and is where my focus and interest is, exciting and challenging.

Chau; America Del Sur

Posted on January 9th, 2012

First, merry Christmas and happy new years. Somewhat late, apologies, but it is a new year somewhere in the universe. Been absent from my blog for a while as I knocked about South America in my time machine. Argentina, Bolivia, Peru and now Chile. Spent the past 3 weeks in Peru. Christmas in Peru equals massive fun filled festivals full of colourful costumes, food and beer, lasting days even months. One of my favourite photos from our workshop in Peru: Two boys from the ‘barrio’ neighborhood of Arequipa in Peru, ready for the Christmas festival party.

peru- christmas boys

Argentina and Bolivia were very bumpy roads indeed for me. Fortunately Peru was quite the opposite and super. The 16 day Adam Weintraub PhotoExperience.net workshop in Peru; with Daniel Milnor as our teacher + Dan’s wife Amy Kawadler and Adam Weintraub as co-instructors, was absolutely phenomenal. Exceeded my high expectations. A million laughs round the clock, have not laughed that much for a long time, very needed. Great locations, lectures, reviews, one-on-one sessions, photo-shoots and . Learned a lot and captured some nice photo essays which I shall share soon. We ended with 5 days expedition in the Amazon jungle, simply brilliant. Thanks to the whole group, the giggle crew, for an outstanding time. Our hardest moment was attempting not to laugh during a night walk in the Amazon jungle where we were supposed to be quiet. We lasted all of 10 minutes before chatting, laughing. Special thanks to Adam, my great amigo, photographer and organizer, thanks also for having me at your place in Cusco and you and your family’s great hospitality. I shall return, I trust you Adam to fix the weather in Cusco for me! Special thanks to Dan for the inspiration, ideas, help, reviews, and many, many laughs. Anytime you want me to quote the entire Star Wars movie from memory, just let me know – “you’ll never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy”.

Possibly need to regenerate like Doctor Who soon. My once healthy body is also in need of a home, immune system needs fixing. Caught a vicious stomach bug and a bad cold in Peru. Hoping some Summer in Australia will help, taking the time machine for a spin again and splash down in Perth on Friday.

More to come, till then, be well.

America Del Sur — Home project

Posted on November 9th, 2011

america del sur - home project

Presently I am in South America, working on my HOME project. Capturing the people and their environments and living conditions, attempting to show how there’s much more than unites than divides us–no matter where we live.

I spent a few days in Buenos Aires, which, like any big city, I did not like much, the La Boca suburb (not the touristy part) was interesting though and I met some great people at the splendid Ada & Valentyn’s B&B. Also, I finally got to meetup with longtime acquaintance, the rather awesome, Daniel Fox. Now, I am in Salta in the North West. Surrounded by mountains, with a dry 34 degrees heat, underneath a dusty blue sky this desert like town and the surrounds are very interesting and promises good opportunities for my documentary HOME project. I may end up staying here for quite a while. Certainly, moving again has little appeal, until I am meeting Adam Weintraub and Daniel Milnor in Peru in mid December.

america del sur - tango practice

america del sur - salta backstreet

Travel, especially the moving part of it, I have now overdone to the point of causing an allergic reaction in my mind when I think about moving, not having a home. Waking up, not knowing where I am. I must be rather thick as here I am, one very last endeavour. I look forward to settling down when I am home again, a home, a job, a life. Had to go around the world three times to figure out where home was, who I was–and am–and want to be and that I am going to be ok. Like I said, rather thick!

It is a relief to relieve myself of the pressure of producing and constantly publish single-image photos for now and just work on my own long term project. I am presently very much into documentary style story-based work, learning this as I go by shooting an awful lot of ordinary images but the process itself is as important as the result. Work like there’s no audience. Therefore I will not be posting much either, this is slow journalism and a long term project for upcoming books and magazines.

Till that day, be well.

Copenhagen Nightwalking

Posted on October 26th, 2011

cph-night-banner

Charlene Winfred, a dear friend of mine, has a great long running photo series on Nightwalking featuring some awesome images of Perth at night. Long have I promised her to do a similar shoot in Copenhagen. Long have I had plans to wake up at 2am in Summer and go night walking – at Summer darkness does not win over light until around midnight. That never happened, so instead I spent two freezing evenings in October roaming the city and I have finally captured a few images of Copenhagen by Night – read on.